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Maschen - Mode - Macher Zum Inhalt springen Eine Ausstellung über die deutschen Strumpfdynastien im Industriemuseum Cromford – RatingenEine Ausstellung nur über Strümpfe? Das klingt im ersten Moment ein wenig komisch. Immerhin ist der Strumpf ein ziemlich alltägliches Kleidungsstück. Jeder von uns hat Dutzende oder vielleicht auch noch mehr davon in einer Schublade oder sonst wo im Schrank herumliegen und die meiste Zeit schenken wir diesem Kleidungsstück eher wenig Aufmerksamkeit. Aber es steckt so viel im Strumpf, viel mehr als man auf den ersten Blick sieht. Denn hinter diesem alltäglichen Kleidungsstück stehen viele spannende Geschichte, ebenso wie Menschen, die die Strümpfe machen und um die geht es primär in der Ausstellung „Maschen – Mode – Macher“, die ab dem 21. Mai 2017 in der Industriemuseum Cromford in Ratingen zu sehen ist.
Damenstrümpfe im 19. Jahrhundert Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Die Geschichte des StrumpfesSie ist lang, die Geschichte des Strumpfes . Sie reicht zurück bis in vorchristliche Zeit und war vielen Wechselfällen und Entwicklungen unterworfen. Es hat lange gedauert, bis sich aus den ersten Fuß- und Beinbekleidungen so etwas wie ein Strumpf oder eine Socke entwickelt hat. Als es ihn dann aber erst einmal gab – den Strumpf – da war sein Siegeszug kaum mehr aufzuhalten. Wer kennt sie nicht, diese „Helden in Strumpfhosen“, à la Robin Hood, die uns in endlos vielen Hollywoodstreifen begegnen. Wer kennt nicht die barocken Bilder der Herren mit strammen Waden in enganliegenden weißen Strümpfen – ein Zeichen von Männlichkeit und Stärke.
Die Socken der Herren und die passenden Strumpfhalter Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Und wie sieht es heute aus? Heute ist der Strumpf des Mannes beinahe nicht mal mehr ein modisches Accessoire, er ist versteckt unter Hosen und in Schuhen und beinahe unsichtbar geworden. Vorbei sind die Zeiten der zur Schau gestellten Männlichkeit in engen Strumpfhosen und langen Strümpfen. Heute ist der Strumpf – oder besser noch die Strumpfhose ein Kleidungsstück der Frau. Es ist das weibliche Bein, dass mit hauchzarten Strümpfen oder Strumpfhosen verführt. Es ist die Dame, die den Strumpf sichtbar zu Markte trägt, nicht mehr der Herr. Doch wann kam dieser Bruch, wann wandelte sich dieses Kleidungsstück – der Strumpf – vom männlichen zum weiblichen Accessoire? Diese Frage klärt die Cromforder Ausstellung mit interessanten Exponaten, wie etwa einem der Highlights: dem Strumpf König Friedrichs des Großen von Preußen, dem man ansieht, dass der Mann tatsächlich so sparsam war, wie er immer dargestellt wird.
Strumpf Friedrichs des Großen Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Sieht man diesen Strumpf, so glaubt man kaum, dass dieser einst ein königlicher war. Er besteht beinahe nurmehr aus gestopften Stellen und ist völlig unscheinbar. Seine einstige Kostbarkeit entnimmt man heute einzig noch dem Material: er ist aus Seide. Spannend aber wurde die Geschichte des Strumpfes vor allem mit der Einführung der Nylons bzw. Perlons . Sie veränderten und revolutionierten das Bild vom Strumpf. Sie lösten einen nie dagewesenen und gekannten Hype auf Strümpfe aus. Gerade ihre Geschichte ist spannend und regt mitunter auch zum Schmunzeln an, wenn man sich etwa das „Beinglas“ oder die deutsche „Beinkönigin“ anschaut.
Ein Glas in Beinform zur Wahl der “Deutschen Beinkönigin” Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Neben Kostümen und Strümpfen des 18. bis 21. Jahrhunderts findet sich vor allem Interessantes zur Geschichte der Herstellung von Strümpfen in dieser Ausstellung, so etwa einer der ersten Handwirkstühle, der eine maschinelle Herstellung von Strümpfen ermöglichte. Erfunden wurde er 1589 vom Engländer William Lee. Oder auch erste Rundstrickmaschinen, die die Strumpfschläuche herstellen. Aber die Cromforder Ausstellung ist vor allem den Machern, den Strumpfdynastien und den Arbeitnehmer in jener Strumpfindustrie gewidmet.
Die Macher – Strumpfdynastien einst und heuteCromford ist ein passender Ort, um sich mit Strümpfen zu beschäftigen. Gegründet wurde Cromford 1783 bzw. 1784 von Johann Gottfried Brügelmann als quasi erste Fabrik auf dem europäischen Kontinent. Hier wurden erstmals die englischen Maschinen genutzt, um Garne und Stoffe industriell zu fertigen. Und als Verleger und Kaufmann hatte Brügelmann natürlich auch Strümpfe im Angebot. Er also eröffnet diesen Hauptteil der Ausstellung und empfängt den Besucher.
Johann Gottfried Brügelmann ca. 1800 http://www.lwl.org/aufbruch-download/bilder/verweise-biografien-A_E-1070636813_7.jpg Ein wirklicher Dynast allerdings war Brügelmann nicht, zumindest nicht in Sachen Strümpfe. Das waren andere, die die Geschichte dieses Kleidungsstückes über Jahrzehnte und Jahrhunderte beherrschten. Da gab es zum Beispiel die Familie Esche, die maßgeblich dazu beitrugen, dass sich Chemnitz um 1900 zur Welthauptstadt der Strumpfherstellung entwickelte. Johann Esche (1682-1752) war einer jener Pioniere in Sachen Strumpfdynastien. Er begann damit in Limbach eine der wichtigsten Produktionsstätten für Strümpfe aufzubauen, das dann später von Carl Julius (1814-1867) und Theodor Esche (1817-1873) zu einer großindustriellen Produktion ausgebaut wurde. Man beherrschte weite Teile des Strumpfmarktes und exportierte die eigenen Erzeugnisse bis nach Amerika, Indien und Afrika. Herbert Eugen Esche (1874-1962) war der letzte Spross dieser Dynastie, der sich als Kunstmäzen einen Namen machte und sich von Edvard Munch porträtieren ließ.
Herbert Eugen Esche (1874-1962), Porträt von Edvard Munch 1905 Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Auch die Bahners sind eine dieser Dynastien. Auch sie stammten aus Sachsen. In Oberlungwitz gründete Louis Bahner 1889 sein Unternehmen und vertrieb seine Strümpfe unter dem noch heute bekannten Markennamen „Elbeo“. Nach dem zweiten Weltkrieg siedelte die Firma nach Augsburg, Mannheim, Lauingen und Kiel über. Man zog nun die Frauen des Wirtschaftswunders an und prägte ganz maßgeblich einen neuen Modestil und eine neue Form der Sinnlichkeit mit. Der besondere Qualitätsanspruch, den Elbeo vertrat brachte ihr den Titel „Rolls-Royce der Strumpfbranche“ ein, verliehen vom Economist. Ja, und wer kennt sie nicht: die Kunerts. Bis heute eine der wichtigsten und bekanntesten Strumpfmarken. Julius Kunert (1871-1950) machte aus diesem in Böhmen gegründeten Unternehmen in nur wenigen Jahren den größten Strumpfhersteller Europas, der schließlich im Kauf der Firma Hudson gipfelte, einer ebenfalls noch heute bekannten Strumpfmarke. Noch heute ist Kunert einer der größten Strumpfhersteller. Eine Familiendynastie allerdings ist das Unternehmen nicht mehr. 1988 ging man an die Börse.
Werbeplakat der Firma Kunert Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Die letzte echte Strumpfdynastie, bis heute in Familienhand, das sind die Falkes. Sie zählen zu den Weltmarktführern in Sachen Strümpfe. Mit einem hohen ästhetischen und qualitativen Anspruch haben sie es vom kleinen Familienunternehmen aus dem Sauerland bis an die Spitze geschafft. Ihr Markenzeichen, das sind Werbekampagnen, die einfach anders sind, die die Erotik ebenso wie ein spezielles Lebensgefühl mit dem Strumpf verbinden. Dazu engagierten sie Topfotografen, wie Helmut Newton, Peter Knapp und F. C. Gundlach für ihre Kampagnen. „Maschen – Mode – Macher“ bringt uns diese Menschen und Dynastien näher. Erzählt uns ihre Geschichten und lässt – und das sind das Außergewöhnliche – auch sie erzählen. Denn den Machern der Ausstellung, die ursprünglich im Textilmuseum Augsburg konzipiert und dort auch 2014 erstmals gezeigt wurde, gelang es eben diese Macher der Strümpfe zu interviewen und von ihnen selbst ihre Geschichte zu hören. Die so zustande gekommenen Interviews kann man sich an speziellen Medieneinheiten anhören und erhält so einen einmaligen Blick in die Geschichte der Strumpfherstellung.
Die Arbeit in der Strumpfindustrie, die Maschinen und die Frauen, die sie bedienten Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Die Arbeitnehmer in der StrumpfindustrieAuch ihnen, den Arbeitern, die die Strümpfe herstellen, die wir alltäglich an unsere Füße ziehen, ist ein Teil der Ausstellung gewidmet. Auch sie melden sich zu Wort, denn auch mit ihnen wurden Interviews geführt, die man sich in dieser Ausstellung anhören kann. So gewinnt man einen Eindruck von den zum Teil schweren Arbeitsbedingungen in den Fabriken , von den hohen Krankenständen und den Berufskrankheiten, die es auch hier gibt. Die Strumpfindustrie ist letztlich bis heute ein Arbeitsplatz für Frauen. Bis zu 70 Prozent der Belegschaft der Strumpffirmen bestand aus Frauen. Vielfach nur angelernte Arbeitskräfte, die die Strümpfe kettelten, damit die Spitze des Strumpfes geschlossen werden konnte. Nach dem 2. Weltkrieg zogen die meisten großen Strumpfhersteller von Ostdeutschland oder Böhmen nach Westdeutschland um. Sie brachten ihre Arbeiter mit und so ist die Geschichte der Strumpfherstellung nach dem 2. Weltkrieg vor allem auch eine Geschichte der Migration. Ein Thema, das heute wichtiger denn je erscheint.
Das Konzept von „Maschen – Mode – Macher“Die ursprünglich vom Augsburger Textilmuseum konzipierte Ausstellung ist in drei Teile gegliedert, die von Alexandra Hilleke und Claudia Gottfried an die Räumlichkeiten in Cromford angepasst wurden. Hier befinden wir uns in einer alten Fabrik des 18. Jahrhunderts, die eben nicht aus einer großen Halle besteht, wie dies in späteren Jahrhunderten normal wurde, sondern aus einzelnen eher kleinen Etagen und so erzählt hier in Cromford jede Etage einen Teil der Geschichte des Strumpfes:
Eine der ersten Handwirkmaschinen des 16. Jahrhunderts Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Aus statischen Gründen konnten die Maschinen nur in die 2. Etage gebracht werden und so beginnt die Ausstellung – einmal ganz anders – nämlich in der 3. Etage! Man arbeitet sich also langsam nach unten vor. An zahlreichen multimedialen und Mitmachstationen erfährt man im Zuge der Ausstellung interessantes, spannendes und teils auch Kurioses über Strümpfe, Socken und Strumpfhosen. Etwa wie viele Kilometer eine Socke in einem Strumpfleben so zurücklegt und natürlich wohin die Strümpfe in der Waschmaschine verschwinden (sie kennen das Phänomen sicher auch). Eine Strumpfgalerie bringt so manchen Strumpf zum Vorschein, den man schon immer einmal gerne haben wollte.
Strumpfgalerie in der Ausstellung “Maschen – Mode – Macher” Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Insgesamt sind es über 300 Originalexponate, Fotos, Werbeplakate, Filme und Maschinen, die hier in der „Hohen Fabrik“ Cromford zu sehen und zu erleben sind. Ein spannender Rundgang auch für Familien mit Kindern, die hier zahlreiches zu bestaunen und zu entdecken finden. Zu Ausstellung ist ein Begleitheft erschienen, das zum Preis von 5 € im Museum erhältlich ist. Die Ausstellung „Maschen – Mode – Macher. Deutsche Strumpfdynastien“ ist vom 21. Mai bis 22. Dezember 2017 in der „Hohen Fabrik“ des Rheinischen Industriemuseums Cromford in Ratingen zu sehen. Der Eintrittspreis beträgt 5,50 € für Erwachsene. Kinder und Jugendliche bis 18 Jahren haben freien Eintritt. Bis auf das Dachgeschoss ist die Ausstellung barrierefrei zugänglich.
Der Strumpftisch bietet die Gelegenheit die Qualitäten der Strümpfe zu erfühlen Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann LVR-Industriemuseum Textilfabrik Cromford Cromforder Allee 24 40878 Ratingen Öffnungszeiten: dienstags bis freitags 10-17 Uhr samstags und sonntags sowie an Feiertagen 11-18 Uhr
Ich danke dem LVR-Industriemuseum Cromford für die Einladung zur Ausstellungs-Preview von „Maschen – Mode – Macher“ und der Möglichkeit Fotos von dieser Ausstellung zu machen und diese hier zu veröffentlichen.
Cromford – Herrenhaus Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Beitrags-Navigation Scroll Up Diese Website benutzt Cookies. Wenn sie die Website weiter nutzten, stimmen sie meiner Datenschutzerklärung zu und ich gehe von ihrem Einverständnis aus. OK Nein Datenschutzerklärung
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