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#perlenfischen in der Römerzeit Zum Inhalt springen #perlenfischenDer Info-Point Museen & Schlösser in Bayern rief zu einer Blogparade auf unter dem Motto „Perlenfischen“ . Sie möchten sie sammeln, die Perlen in der Museumslandschaft, möchten, dass wir Blogger nach unseren ganz persönlichen Perlen fischen. Da kann ich natürlich nicht ‘Nein’ sagen und habe das Netz ausgeworfen:
Eine Perle aus der RömerzeitWenn man mich nach meinen Lieblingsepochen in der Geschichte fragt, dann kommen ganz klar zwei Antworten: die Zeit des Barock und Rokoko und die Zeit der Römer. Das mag den ein oder anderen Erstaunen, aber wer sich in der erstgenannten Epoche mal so umschaut, der stellt schnell fest, dass sie ganz viele Rückgriffe auf die römische Antike nimmt und so passen denn meine beiden zeitlich eigentlich so weit auseinanderliegenden Präferenzen dann doch recht gut zusammen. Zum #Perlenfischen hat es mich zu den Römern gezogen, die nicht weit von hier, wo ich diesen Artikel schreibe, einst gelebt und Spuren hinterlassen haben. Spuren, die noch immer nicht alle gefunden worden sind, Spuren, die uns mehr über ihr Leben verraten, über ihr Denken und ihre Kultur. Die Perle von der ich hier berichte ist nicht ein Museum im klassischen Sinne des Wortes, es ist aber auch ein Museum.
Grün und duftend: Der Kräutergarten an der römischen Herberge im LVR-Archäologischen Park Xanten. Foto: Axel Thünker DGPh Wir begeben uns nach Traiana, „einer Stadt für ausgediente und entlassene Soldaten, die vor fast 1900 Jahren dort, wo heute Xanten liegt, von römischen Baumeistern errichtet wurde, in deren Mauern mehr als zwei Jahrhunderte lang Menschen sicher und zufrieden lebten, ehe die Stadt zerstört wurde und in Trümmer fiel. […] Seit Jahrzehnten wird ihre Geschichte erforscht, und was dort im Archäologischen Park Xanten vor unseren Augen ausgegraben und wiederaufgebaut wird, entspricht den neuesten Erkenntnissen der archäologischen Wissenschaft.“ Dies schrieb vor über 30 Jahren Tilmann Bechert , seines Zeichens Archäologe mit Spezialgebiet Provinzialrömischer Archäologie, in seinem Buch „Marcus, der Römer“, in dem er die fiktive Lebensgeschichte eben jenes Marcus erzählte und diese in der Colonia Ulpia Traiana spielen ließ. Mich persönlich hat dieses Buch damals nicht nur für die Römer und ihre Zeit begeistert, sondern auch für eben jene Colonia, die gar nicht so weit weg heute quasi wieder im Entstehen begriffen ist.
Xanten Archäologischer Park – Blick auf rekonstruierte Gebäude Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Inzwischen ist Traiana einer meiner Seelenorte geworden. Hier kann ich in eine andere Welt eintauchen, Geschichte erleben. Sie wird vor meinen Augen sichtbar, manifestiert sich und wenn ich im Arkadengang der Herberge sitze und meinen Kaffee trinke (ok, das ist nicht ganz stilecht) dann fällt mir beinahe nicht mehr auf, dass die Menschen um mich herum nicht mit einer Toga bekleidet sind, sondern eher mit Jeans und T-Shirt. Immer, wenn ich mal wieder eine komplette Schreibblockade habe, wenn mir nichts mehr einfällt und ich mich wirklich endgültig frage, warum ich nicht etwas Vernünftiges gelernt und vielleicht eine Banklehre gemacht habe, dann zieht es mich ins Amphitheater, bewaffnet mit Ciceros Reden, Caesars Gallischem Krieg oder auch Suetons Cäsarenleben sitze ich dann dort und schon nach wenigen Minuten ist die Antwort auf die vorher gestellte Frage ganz klar!
Blick auf das Xantener Amphitheater mit Trajanstatue – Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Nun gut, das ist die Sichtweise einer Historikerin und wahrscheinlich hätte ich meinen Beruf wirklich gänzlich verfehlt, wenn es mir nicht so gehen würde, aber wenn ich so durch den Archäologischen Park in Xanten laufe, dann stelle ich immer wieder fest, dass ich mit dieser Begeisterung und diesem Gefühl des Eintauchens in die Römerzeit hier wahrlich nicht alleine bin. Und das trifft nicht nur auf erwachsene und kultur- und geschichtsinteressierte Menschen zu, sondern vor allem auch auf Kinder, die hier jede Menge Möglichkeiten haben das alltägliche Leben in römischer Zeit nachzuvollziehen. Interessant sind da vor allem die Sonderveranstaltungen, wenn „römische“ Handwerker und Händler Traiana mit noch mehr Leben erfüllen, als hier eh schon vorhanden ist.
M2. Das LVR-RömerMuseum und die Großen Thermen (Foto: Axel Thünker DGPh) Das Museum des Archäologischen ParksEines der imposantesten Gebäude im Archäologischen Park ist das dortige Museum. Eine gelungene, unvergleichbare und vor allem unverwechselbare Kombination eines Museumsbaus mit einem archäologischen Schutzbau. Schon weithin sichtbar ragt es aus dem Gelände heraus. „Errichtet auf den römischen Grundmauern der monumentalen Eingangshalle, ergänzt es den Schutzbau über den Thermen zu einem faszinierenden Ensemble.“ Ein Satz, dem ich mich nur mit großer Begeisterung für diesen Bau anschließen kann. Ebenso wie der Erläuterung zur Intention , die man mit diesem Museumsbau verbunden hat: „ Die römischen Baumeister schufen monumentale Bauwerke, wie sie die Menschen in der Provinz noch nicht gesehen hatten. Die Architektur des Museums vermittelt einen unmittelbaren Eindruck von dieser Wirkung. Innen wie außen gibt das Gebäude ganz die Dimensionen der römischen Basilika Thermarum wieder.“ Die Thermen hatten eine Grundfläche von 70 mal 22 Metern und die Halle eine Höhe von nahezu 25 Metern. Das sind schon recht beeindruckende Dimensionen, die man anhand der freigelegten Grundmauern gut nachvollziehen kann. Auf eben jenen Grundmauern stehen heute 14 Stahlrahmen, die das Grundgerüst für den Museumsbau bilden, der 1999 eröffnet wurde. Stahl und Glas bilden die Fassade, zeichnen die Basilika Thermarum nach und erlauben es vom Innenraum aus stets die alte Colonia im Blick zu behalten, so dass sich museales Zeigen und archäologisches Sein miteinander verbinden und ineinander spielen können.
Archäologischer Park Xanten – Modell der Thermen Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Die einstigen römischen Thermen besaßen einen großen und sehr hohen Innenraum, der im heutigen Museum nachempfunden wird, denn anders als in einem „normalen“ Museum gibt es hier keine durchgehenden Geschosse: Schwebende Rampen führen die Besucher auf verschiedene Ebenen, die verschiedene Themen des römischen Lebens und verschiedene Epochen aus der Geschichte der Colonia und Xantens zeigen. Positiv anzumerken ist überdies die vollständige Barrierefreiheit zu vermerken, die man hier erreicht hat.
M6. Einblick in das neue LVR-RömerMuseum im Archäologischen Park Xanten (Foto: Axel Thünker DGPh) Das Untergeschoss mit der erhaltenen Grundmauer der ehemaligen Thermen (immerhin 70 Meter lang und 5 Meter dick), beherbergt neben einem Bereich für Wechselausstellungen auch einen Vortragsraum.
Römermuseum Xanten Archäologischer Park Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Die römische Stadt Colonia Ulpia TraianaWer heute in die Stadt Xanten kommt, der staunt eher ungläubig, wenn man ihm erzählt, dass die antike römische Colonia zu den größten provinzialrömischen Städten gehörte. Hier lebten schätzungsweise mehr als 10.000 Menschen (das heutige Xanten hat übrigens nur etwa doppelt so viele Einwohner und gehört zum Kreis Wesel). Begonnen hat dies alles mit einem kleinen Legionslager um das Jahr 12 v. Chr., also noch zur Zeit des ersten römischen Kaisers: Augustus. Mindestens eine Legion war hier seither stationiert und Mitte des 1. Jahrhunderts n. Chr. wurde das Lager zu einem Zweilegionenlager erweitert. Übrigens, um sich die Menge an Menschen vorzustellen, die hinter dieser Angabe steckt: Eine Legion umfasste 3.000 bis 6.000 Soldaten! Dazu kam dann noch der Tross bestehend aus Handwerkern, Händlern, Frauen, Kindern und so weiter und so fort. Sie merken – die Angabe mit mehr als 10.000 Menschen ist durchaus nicht zu hoch gegriffen. Die Bedeutung der Colonia kann man recht gut einschätzen, wenn man überlegt, dass es zu diesem Zeitpunkt etwa 25-30 Legionen im gesamten Römischen Reich gab; d.h. knapp 7 Prozent aller römischen Truppen hielt sich hier am Niederrhein auf. Recht beeindruckend, wenn man die Größe des gesamten Reiches bedenkt. Noch beeindruckender, wenn man hört, dass Xanten neben Köln die einzige „Colonia“ in Niedergermanien war.
Modell der Colonia Ulpia Traiana – Xanten Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Und da die Römer nun einmal den Luxus liebten und auf den gewohnten Komfort natürlich auch hier nicht verzichten wollten, wurde gebaut: ein Straßennetz, ein Hafen und was man eben sonst noch so braucht um sich wohlzufühlen und versorgt zu sein. Das zieht natürlich auch so manchen anderen Menschen an, der es gerne etwas netter haben möchte und so gründet sich eine Siedlung, die wächst und wächst, direkt am Hafen, denn da ist es ja besonders praktisch. Gasthäuser, Geschäfte, Handwerksbetriebe kommen hinzu und: Voilà, damit wäre die Stadt komplett!
Statue des Kaisers Trajan – Xanten Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Der Name der ColoniaIhren Namen verdankt die Colonia Ulpia Traiana übrigens, dem aufmerksamen und Römeraffinen Menschen wird es nicht entgangen sein, Kaiser Marcus Ulpius Traianus (53-117), den wir alle besser unter dem Namen „Trajan“ kennen. Dass die Colonia seinen Namen trägt und nicht etwa den des Augustus oder eines anderen römischen Kaisers liegt schlichtweg daran, dass das ursprüngliche Legionslager um das Jahr 70 von den Batavern in Schutt und Asche gelegt worden war. Die hiesigen Germanen hatten es halt nicht so mit den Römern (im Gegensatz zu mir). Den Römern gelang es aber die Aufständischen zu befrieden (naja, so kann man es eben auch nennen) und das Lager mit allem Drum und Dran wiederaufzubauen. Wahrscheinlich noch größer, schöner und beeindruckender als zuvor, denn entweder im Jahr 98 oder im Jahr 99 erhielt die neue Siedlung die Rechte einer Colonia. Damit zählte man nun zu den 150 wichtigsten Städten des römischen Reiches und darauf kann man sich schon mal was einbilden. 73 Hektar groß war diese Colonia, besaß, wie typisch für römische Städte, ein rechtwinkliges Straßenraster, dass man heute im archäologischen Park sehr gut nachvollziehen kann, Tempel, Thermen, ein Amphitheater, Herberge(n), Gasthäuser, Handwerksbetriebe, natürlich ein Kapitol für die wichtigsten Staatsgötter, ein Forum, wo man Politik machen kann und wahrscheinlich noch das ein oder andere, das noch nicht ausgegraben wurde. Im Grunde war Traian ein kleines Rom und um das auch ganz klar zu machen, besaßen die Einwohner der Colonia das volle römische Bürgerrecht. Die großen Bauwerke, die man hier im heutigen archäologischen Park bewundern kann, wie etwa das Amphitheater oder der Hafentempel, auch die Reste der Thermen, stammen alle aus der Blütezeit der Colonia im 2. Jahrhundert.
Der Hafentempel im LVR-Archäologischen Park Xanten. Foto: Axel Thünker DGPh Untergang und Wiederauferstehung der Colonia Ulpia TraianaDas 3. Jahrhundert brachte den Niedergang der Colonia. Es kriselte in Rom und an den Rändern des Reiches regte sich Aufruhr, was logischerweise das Kriseln im Innern noch verstärkte – der altbekannte Teufelskreis eben. Ende des 3. Jahrhunderts war dann kein Halten mehr: die Franken überrannten die Colonia und zerstörten was sie fanden. Aber Römer sind ja zäh und geben nicht so schnell klein bei, also taten sie, was Römer in solchen Situationen meistens taten: sie verkleinerten die Siedlung und umgaben sie mit einer durchaus beeindruckenden Stadtmauer mit ebenfalls beeindruckenden Toren, denn man will ja jetzt endlich mal geschützt sein (ein negatives Erlebnis reicht ja nun). Vier Meter dick war diese beeindruckende Stadtmauer, hatte nicht weniger als 44 Türme und war zusätzlich durch tiefe Gräben geschützt. Einen neuen Namen verpasste man dem ganzen auch: wahrscheinlich war der neue Name „Tricensimae“ nach der 30. Legion, die hier über fast die ganze Zeit stationiert war. Auch der neue Name half aber nicht, die Colonia legte sich zum Sterben nieder. Aus war es mit dem lustigen und luxuriösen Römerleben. Im Laufe des 4. Jahrhunderts endete das städtische Leben, die Franken kamen und stellten fest, dass man diese riesigen Bauwerke ja wundervoll als Steinbruch benutzen kann (ein übrigens typisches Problem; das gab es selbst in Rom, selbst dort finden Sie überall Gebäude aus späterer Zeit in denen ursprünglich „römische“ Steine verbaut sind). Viele Steine der alten Colonia findet man heute übrigens im nahe gelegenen Xantener Dom wieder, der also quasi aus Ruinen erbaut wurde.
Blick auf den Xantener Dom Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Und wie war das mit Marcus?Sie erinnern sich an Marcus, den Römer, jene Kunstfigur des Archäologe Tilmann Bechert, den ich eingangs erwähnte? Nun, er erlebte den Niedergang nicht, er war hier zur Entstehungszeit der Colonia beheimatet. Sein Vater Firmus hatte eine Metzgerei und das ehemalige Zelt war einem Haus aus Stein mit Laden, Wohnküche, Latrine, Vorratskammer und netten Schlafzimmern gewichen. Marcus wuchs in einer Stadt auf, die zu blühen begann und sich mit jedem Tag veränderte, größer wurde, prachtvoller und lebendiger. „Am dritten Tag nach den Kalenden des Monats November [3.11.170] starb Marcus Iulius Traianus.“ in eben jener Stadt deren Aufblühen er miterlebt hatte.
Einmarsch der Legionäre im Amphitheater beim Römerfest “Schwerter, Brot und Spiele” im LVR-Archäologischen Park Xanten. Foto: Axel Thünker DGPh APX – Archäologischer Park XantenBetreten kann man das Museum übrigens gleich über drei verschiedene Eingänge, so kommt es, außer bei großen Sonderveranstaltungen, auch selten zu Staus an den Kassen, was sehr angenehm ist: Eingang Hafentempel (alter Haupteingang) Am Rheintor, 46509 Xanten Eingang Stadtzentrum (neuer Haupteingang) Am Amphitheater, 46509 Xanten Eingang LVR-RömerMuseum Siegfriedstraße 39, 46509 Xanten Parkflächen gibt es rund ums Gelände auch ausreichend und im Gelände leckeres und zum Teil sogar römisch angehauchtes Essen. Alle weiteren Infos, wie Öffnungszeiten, Preise etc., findet man hier auf der Homepage des APX .
Rekonstruktion eines Stadttores der Colonia Ulpia Traiana – Xanten Foto: A. Kircher-Kannemann Ich bedanke mich an dieser Stelle beim Archäologischen Park Xanten für die Erlaubnis zur Veröffentlichung der Fotos und für die z. T. zur Verfügung gestellten Bilder. Beitragsbild: Das LVR-RömerMuseum und die Großen Thermen in der Dämmerung (Foto: Axel Thünker DGPh)
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Liebe Anja,
vielen lieben Dank fürs Auswerfen Deines #perlenfischen Netzes in die römische Epoche hinein! Der Archäologische Park in Xanten führt uns auf beeindruckende Weise Geschichte vor Augen… Und auch das Spazieren durch die Zeit kommt nicht zu kurz 😉
Ganz liebe Grüße aus München
Sabine
Redaktionsteam Museumsperlen
Liebe Anja,
vielen lieben Dank fürs Auswerfen Deines #perlenfischen Netzes in die römische Epoche hinein! Der Archäologische Park in Xanten führt uns auf beeindruckende Weise Geschichte vor Augen… Und auch das Spazieren durch die Zeit kommt nicht zu kurz 😉
Ganz liebe Grüße aus München
Sabine
Redaktionsteam Museumsperlen
Liebe Sabine,
vielen Dank vor allem für Eure wirklich tolle Blogparade. #perlenfischen macht richtig Spaß und ich habe schon eine Menge Perlen entdeckt, die ich dringend mal besuchen muss.
Mir ist auch noch eine zweite ins Netz gegangen. Die kommt dann nächste Woche 😉
Ich wünsch Euch noch viel Erfolg und viele Perlen. Wir haben ja noch eine Woche Zeit 😉
Liebe Grüße nach München
Anja